Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
